Let me start by introducing the RPE scale. It is in all its simplicity a number scale from 1 to 10 which gives you the possibility to communicate how much effort you use in any given situation in your life.
When used in climbing or training its purpose is both to communicate your grade of exertion on a boulder problem, a route or in any given exercise, and to be used as a strategy to ensure strength progress while minimizing risk of overuse injuries.
Here's a simple explanation of the exertion for each number on the scale (also, see the chart for a better overview):
Means very, very easy:
This is like when you're sitting or lying down and not doing anything at all. You don't feel like you're using any effort.
Means very easy:
It's like when you're standing up and just walking slowly. It doesn't make you tired, and you can keep going for a long time.
Means easy:
This is like walking a little faster than before. You may feel a slight increase in your heart rate, but it's still comfortable and not too tiring.
Means somewhat easy:
It's like walking a bit faster or jogging slowly. You can feel your body working a bit harder, and you might start to breathe a little faster.
Means moderate:
It's like when you're jogging or playing a game and your heart rate increases even more. You start to breathe faster and you start sweating.
Means somewhat hard:
It's like when you're playing a sport or doing exercises that make you sweat and breathe even faster. Your talking reduces to 1-2 sentences, and it takes more effort.
Means hard:
This is like when you're doing intense exercises that make you breathe heavily and sweat a lot. It's challenging, and you need to concentrate on what you're doing.
Means very hard:
It's like when you're pushing your body to its limits. You're breathing really fast, and it's difficult to talk or do anything else except focus on the exercise.
Means very, very hard:
This is like when you're doing something extremely challenging, like running very fast or doing a difficult exercise. You're almost at your maximum effort, and it feels very tough.
Means extremely hard:
It's like when you're doing the most difficult exercise you can imagine. You're giving it your all, and you can't keep going for much longer. It feels very, very tough.
Remember, RPE is subjective, which means it depends on how you feel. It's important to listen to your body and choose an appropriate level of exertion for your age and fitness level.
Why I use an RPE scale when working with climbers
For me as a trainer, the RPE (Rate of Perceived Exertion) are a valuable tool to assess and monitor the intensity of your workouts.
Here's how RPE scale work and the benefits it provides:
Individualized Intensity:
RPE allows my clients to gauge their exercise intensity based on their perception of effort. Not everyone's fitness level is the same, so using a universal scale like the RPE scale (1-10) helps customize workouts to each client's abilities.
Communication and Feedback:
RPE helps my clients communicate how hard they feel they're working during a specific exercise or workout. By using the numbers 1 - 10, they can easily express their exertion level to their trainer. This feedback is crucial for me to understand if the exercise intensity is appropriate and make adjustments if needed.
Goal Setting and Progression:
RPE enables my clients to set realistic goals and track their progress over time. For instance, if a client started with an RPE of 6 for a certain exercise, and after a few weeks of consistent training, they can now perform the same exercise at an RPE of 4, it indicates that they have become stronger and more efficient.
Safety and Injury Prevention:
RPE helps ensure that my clients are not overexerting themselves or pushing beyond their limits, which could lead to injury. By staying within a comfortable range on the RPE scale, my clients can avoid excessive strain and safely progress towards their strength-building goals.
Autoregulation and Adaptation:
RPE empowers my clients to adjust their workout intensity based on how they feel on any given day. Some days, due to various factors like fatigue or stress, the same exercise may feel more challenging. With RPE, my clients can modify their training load to match their current capabilities, allowing for better adaptation and avoiding burnout or overtraining.
Versatility and Variety:
RPE can be applied to various exercise modalities, such as resistance training, cardio, or circuit workouts. My clients can use RPE to self-regulate their effort across different types of exercises, ensuring consistent intensity levels throughout their training regimen.
Here's an example of how I use RPE to increase your pull-up strength
Warm-up:
Begin with a thorough warm-up to prepare your body for the exercise. This can include light cardio and strength exercises, dynamic stretches, and mobility exercises for the upper body.
Set a Baseline:
Start by performing a set of pull-ups at a comfortable intensity level, around an RPE of 5 on the Scale. This will then serve as a baseline for your initial strength level.
Determine the Training Range:
Based on your baseline performance, the trick is to establish a training range that you'll find challenging without being too easy or too difficult. For strength-building, aim for an RPE of 7-8 on the RPE Scale. This means the exercise should feel rather challenging, but you can still maintain good form and complete the repetitions with control.
Multiple Sets and Repetitions:
Depending on your fitness level and ability, determine the number of sets and repetitions for the pull-ups. For example, you can start with 3 sets of 5 repetitions. Be aware that this is just an example, you might need to do more than 5 repetitions to get to an RPE of 7-8.
Monitor and Adjust:
Throughout the sets, you should log your perceived exertion level using the RPE scale. (In the app you can either change or specify the RPE for most of the exercises).
Remember that you always can increase the difficulty/toughness by adding more repetitions or sets. For example, if the RPE is too high and you're struggling to complete the sets, you may need to adjust the workload by reducing the repetitions or providing assistance with a resistance band.
Progression:
Over time, as your strength improves, you can gradually increase the intensity by adjusting the number of repetitions, adding sets, or incorporating variations like weighted pull-ups or slower tempo. Aim to progress to higher RPE levels (8-9) as you become more proficient and comfortable with the exercise. But be sure to have a plan, so to not exceed your level of strength and fitness.
Cool-down and Stretch:
After completing the workout, you should perform a cool-down routine, including light stretching and mobility exercises to promote recovery and flexibility.