Yes, I'm talking about periodization—the structured planning of training that athletes from all sports have used for decades to peak at just the right moment. Today, we're going to dive into the three primary phases of periodization: Base, Build, and Performance, and how they can align with your climbing projects to make you a more robust, less injury-prone, and, ultimately, better climber.
The Base Phase: Building Your Climbing Foundation
Imagine your climbing abilities as a house. The bigger and stronger the foundation, the more you can build on top of it. The Base Phase is all about creating that robust foundation. This phase focuses on general physical preparation, endurance, and building climbing-relevant muscle groups.
Your Base Phase might look something like this:
Aerobic exercises (jogging, cycling, etc.) for general endurance
Moderate bouldering or low-grade routes to build climbing-specific endurance
Fingerboarding sessions to develop grip strength
Core and stability exercises to balance out your body
The Base Phase usually lasts for several weeks, laying the groundwork for more specialized training later on.
The Build Phase: Specialization and Intensity
Welcome to the next level! In the Build Phase, you'll start incorporating more climbing-specific exercises and intensity into your routine. The aim here is to turn that foundational strength and endurance into climbing prowess.
Power-endurance routes or circuits that mimic the kind of climbing you'll face in your project
Campus board or MoonBoard sessions to develop dynamic power
Targeted exercises to address weaknesses, such as crimping or overhangs
Mental preparation, like visualization exercises or mindfulness training
It's essential to monitor your body's responses during this phase—overtraining or neglecting adequate rest can derail your progress and increase the risk of injury.
The Performance Phase: Time to Send!
Here it is, the phase you've been waiting for. Your climbing should be at its peak, coinciding with your targeted projects or competitions. Your workouts will now become highly specific to the exact challenges you'll be facing.
Tapering down volume to prioritize quality over quantity
High-intensity interval training (HIIT) sessions to boost anaerobic performance
On-sight or redpoint practice on routes that mimic your project's specific crux moves
Mental fortitude exercises to prepare for the psychological stress of sending
In my opinion, the Performance Phase is both the most exciting and nerve-wracking part of periodization. You'll often find out just how well you've prepared. Did you build a solid foundation? Did you address your weaknesses adequately? Now's the time to find out!
Periodization isn't just for professional athletes; it's a powerful tool that climbers at any level can use to reach new heights. By carefully planning your Base, Build, and Performance Phases to align with your climbing projects, you set yourself up for success in a sustainable, structured manner. So the next time you find yourself plateauing or getting bored with your routine, consider giving periodization a shot. It might just be the missing link between you and that elusive send.
Climb on! 🧗♀️🧗♂️ and remember we are here to help 😉