Training

A Roadmap to Conquering Your 7a Overhang: Your 12-Week Periodization Plan

You know that 7a boulder problem that's been taunting you? The one with the beastly overhang that feels like a mini battle with gravity every time you attempt it? What if I told you that sending it is entirely within your grasp? The key might just lie in taking a structured approach to your off-the-wall training.

We've talked about periodization before—the art and science of systematically planning your training to peak when it matters most. Now, it's time to take that knowledge and apply it to something real, tangible, and specific: sending that 7a boulder with an overhang crux that you've been eyeing (or cursing at) for a while now.

In this post, we're moving beyond the theory and diving straight into action with a 12-week periodization plan. This isn't a one-size-fits-all kind of deal; feel free to tweak the plan to better suit your needs. The aim here is to give you a solid roadmap to tackle your project, focusing on building a strong foundation, honing specific skills, and peaking at the right moment.

So strap in and chalk up, because your 7a send train is about to leave the station. 🧗‍♀️🚀

Week 1-4: Base Phase

  • Monday: Aerobic conditioning (30-minute jog or cycling, Heart rate zone: 3, moderate lead climbing or bouldering.

  • Wednesday: Moderate bouldering (6a-6b+), focusing on volume and technique.

  • Friday: Fingerboard workout (dead hangs, repeaters).

Weekend: Core and stability exercises (core program, yoga, or Pilates).

Week 5-8: Build Phase

  • Monday: Campus board workout (laddering, bumping, touch-and-go's).

  • Wednesday: Power-endurance bouldering (6b-6c+), focusing on overhangs.

  • Friday: Targeted crimp and pinch strength exercises, pull-ups.

Weekend: Mental preparation (visualization, mindfulness)

Week 9-12: Performance Phase

  • Monday: High-intensity interval training (HIIT) on a hangboard, spray wall or system board.

  • Wednesday: Project-specific simulation. Mimic moves similar to your 7a project.

  • Friday: Tapering down; quality over quantity. Limit bouldering to hone in on crux moves.

Weekend: Active rest and mental fortitude exercises

Note: Rest days should be incorporated in between workout days to allow for sufficient recovery and to minimize the risk of injury.

During the Performance Phase, you should also consider spending more time at the actual boulder problem, familiarizing yourself with its specific moves, nuances, and sequences. After all, the devil is in the details, and understanding the unique features of your project can make or break your send.

Remember, this is just an example. The best periodization plan for you will be personalized to your unique strengths, weaknesses, and schedule.

Feel free to adjust as you see fit, and let us know if we can be of any assistance 😊

Climb on, and may that 7a be your next send! 🧗‍♂️